My Kashmir Great Lakes Trek was challenging, charming, and stimulating apart from being an awesome one overall !
The thrilling aspects of the trek:
Distance covered – 74 kms in 6 days (in mountainous high-altitude terrain)
Ascent to 14000ft (4200m)
Climb and descent of 3 Himalayan passes – Nichnai, Gadsar and Zaj
Steep ascents and steep descents every day
8 picturesque and beautiful glacier-fed lakes
Blossom-filled verdant meadows stretching as far as the eye can see
Gushing stream-crossings
Steep boulder climbs and extended boulder traverses
The Journey Unfolds !
Day 1 – We reach the base camp at Sonamarg, a very pretty place that means ‘Golden Meadow’. We spend the first night here by a beautiful river, getting to know each other, admiring the beauty all around, clicking our first pics, getting used to the wind, the cold, the tents, getting a feel of the days to come. It’s cold after sunset, I just can’t get warm enough in my sleeping bag, and barely sleep.
Day 2 – The actual trek begins !! We start off to Nichnai. We have read that it is going to be a long and a tough day as we begin to ascend today. The meadows we climb up to are unbelievably beautiful, the shades of green are totally mesmerizing! The path also leads into a dark and deep-green forest. When we exit it, we have a really long stretch of walking on boulders along a stream for miles and miles before we reach our camp for the night! Yes, we get an idea of what the terrain and scenery is going to be like for the next few days and totally love it!
Again, I cannot get warm enough and sleep just a couple of hours this night. I also seem to have a headache and slight nausea. Good Lord! These seem like symptoms of Altitude Sickness! I know I am fit enough and any sickness will be mild, but all trek days are long here. I should cope somehow and get over it!
Day 3 – Today we have to climb across Nichnai Pass at 13,000 ft to reach Vishansar Lake where our camp is. We start off at 7.30 am as usual and a bit later to my surprise, I find my heart pounding after I take just a few steps! This is something totally new to me and I am laughing because this feels funny and I wonder what is happening in my body!
A few more steps and I HAVE to stop, rest, catch my breath and walk again. My oxygen saturation is 90 % and I realize I have to take it easy, pace my walk, rest, and just keep walking as best as I can!
My trek mates are ahead and I realize I am lagging behind. But so what?! 😊
As I get used to this unusual ‘pounding of my heart’ I learn how to pace my walk, how to breath in deeply, and tell myself to be patient. I must allow my body to learn to get used to the altitude, and that takes some time.
I send positive thoughts of gratitude to my body and I rest whenever I need to, which is every few steps!!
I walk alone along the flowing stream… it is just me, my thoughts, the sound of flowing water… the wonderful mountains all around me…
I realize I must cover the distance step–by-step, breath–by–breath. That is all there is to it. It feels wonderful.
Yes, I am enjoying my first high-altitude trek!!
I reach the Pass an hour after my group does.
We descend now, and what a sight the descent presents!
Vast, green, rock-filled meadows filled with pretty flowers in the prettiest colours imaginable. The rocks all around are a contrast in shape, size and material to the tiny plants, yet they blend together so beautifully.
That evening, from the camp, it’s an exciting ‘hop’ over boulders on a fast flowing river to reach the first lake of our trip – Vishansar Lake! It is so peaceful there, the waters are a beautiful blue-green, the sky is a bright blue, the rays of the Sun striking off the surface on one end makes the scene amazing.
I am feeling a lot better by now. I sleep well this night, finally !
I know the next day is supposed to be the toughest. It is Gadsar Pass Day – ascent to 14,000 feet on narrow mountain-edge trails.
I believe I am mentally ready for whatever this day has to offer.
Stay with me on the rest of my trek in my next post here!
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